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476 ADVENTURES IN TIBET.
and the most hospitable of hosts. The Tibetans had
regarded me as a suspicious and dangerous individual
;
in India I was literally overwhelmed with the kindest
and most flattering attentions.
I also received numbers of invitations to all parts of
that wonderful land, amongst others to my old friend
Colonel Younghusband, then Resident in Indore, and
now leader of the British expedition to Tibet. But, how-
ever willingly I would have accepted, I could not forget
the caravan that was waiting for me at Leh. All I could
do was to give a peep in, as it were, while passing at one or
two places. For instance, I spent four days with Lord
Northcote, Governor of Bombay, and now Governor-General
of Australia. It was like living on board ship at the ex-
tremity of Malabar Point, where the residency is situated,
and where my verandah was surrounded on three sides
by the sea. At Jaypur I was met by the Maharajah’s
carriage, and taken an interesting trip to see the ruins
of Amber on one of his magnificently caparisoned elephants.
At Jaypur all the houses are rose-coloured and the in-
habitants dress in scarlet and red. The Maharajah of
Kapurtala also invited me by telegraph to his castle, and
His Highness himself acted as my guide when we made
the round of the sights of Kartarpur on an elephant. He
had four sons, lively, charming little fellows, who spoke
EngHsh and French fluently, and thought it very strange
that there should be a king in the far north seventy-
three years old, for their own father was only thirty.
At Rawal-pindi I was rejoined by my faithful Cossack
Shagdur, who had been attacked by fever in Calcutta,
and had been sent north under the care of special nurses.
The English doctors, and especially Colonel Fenn, the
Viceroy’s own physician, who had been unremitting in
his attentions to Shagdur, afterwards received valuable
presents from the Czar in return for the kindness they had
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