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NORWAY, AND DENMARK. 145
down to the shore, no longer terrific. And, as far as I
eonld judge, from glancing my eye over the country as
we drove along, agriculture was in a more advanced
state, though in the habitations a greater appearance of
poverty still remained. The cottages, indeed, often
looked most uncomfortable, but never so miserable as
those I had remarked on the road to Stromstad, and the
towns were equal, if not superior, to many of the little
towns in Wales, or some I have passed through in my
way from Calais to Paris.
The inns as we advanced were not to be complained
of, unless I had always thought of England. The people
were civil, and much more moderate in their demands
than the Norwegians, particularly to the westward,
where they boldly charge for what you never had, and
seem to consider you, as they do a wreck, if not as law-
ful prey, yet as a lucky chance, which they ought not
to neglect to seize.
The prospect of Elsineur, as we passed the Sound,
was pleasant. I gave three rix-dollars for my boat,
including something to drink. I mention the sum,
because they impose on strangers.
Adieu ! till I arrive at Copenhagen.
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